December8
For each of our birthdays, I go to dinner with my sister Betty and our friend Pat at someplace new and interesting. In the past, we’ve covered Amuse Bouche, Globe Bistro, George, Nota Bene and others; Saturday night, it was the newly-opened FRANK at the Art Gallery of Ontario.
First of all, if you haven’t been to the AGO since they opened in the new bits a few weeks ago, get over there and see the new Galleria Italia: the large structure on the second floor overlooking Dundas that is vaguely reminiscent of the wooden ribs of a ship. In addition to the mind-blowing sculpture that fills it, you have to appreciate the beauty of the building itself: to stand in it is to be uplifted. That gallery and the infamous spiral staircase make the building itself part of the art, not just a place where art is housed.
After a couple of hours in the gallery, we headed for FRANK. It is possible to cut through the gift shop and enter without stepping outside, but we were already past closing time and had to walk a few steps along to get to the restaurant. The space is beautifully designed: clean lines, airy and light with wood accents. It’s split into a couple of spaces on different levels, and we were seated on the upper level with a view of the open kitchen as well as over the edge to the bar and eating area below.
One of the first things that I noticed is the huge glass wine storage on one side of the upper level, and the fact that the wine list appeared to be made up completely of Canadian wines. As a big fan (and consumer) of some of the nicer Canadian wines, I was happy to see this; as we perused the menu, it appeared that there was a big push for local ingredients of all types. Unfortunately, the wine list isn’t online and I can’t recall the lovely dry rose sparkling wine that we had as an aperitif (recommended by our server), but it was the perfect start to the meal.
For an appetizer, I had the “still life with pear, pancetta and fig”, which included a small whole pear poached in Riesling, half of a caramelized ripe fig, a slice of pancetta fried crisp, and a crumbling of Quebec Bleu Bénédictin between the pear and the pancetta. Yum. Betty started with the scallops on the half-shell (from Îles de la Madeleine) accompanied by seared Quebec foie gras and crème fraîche, and Pat had the salt cod fritters with anchovies and greens. The food was perfectly plated, and everything was delicious.
The main course had both Pat and I ordering the open-faced ravioli with braised beef shortribs, celeriac and chanterelle mushrooms: a rich and satisfying dish that drove away all thoughts of the snow blowing outside. The meat was off the bone, and the pasta was cooked in sheets then layered with the other ingredients. Betty had the coq au vin; she liked the way that the meat was seared first and finished with the red wine sauce, rather than being cooked in the sauce like a stew. I do remember the wine that we had with dinner: a 2006 Thirty Bench Cabernet-Merlot, silky-smooth yet full-bodied, and a great accompaniment to both dishes with their rich sauces.
None of us really needed dessert after two good-sized courses, but this was a birthday and we had to do the finish. Pat and Betty shared the cheese plate, which included a sheep’s cheese from Quebec and one from France to compare, plus a soft cheese that looked like a Brie. The only disappointment of the evening was the rosemary jelly that accompanied the cheeses: too sweet and not herbaceous enough was their consensus. I was craving a sweet, and had the rice pudding brûlé: I’m a fan of both rice pudding and crème brûlé, and this was the love child of the two, complete with an Armagnac-poached prune nestled down in the pudding. It had two cardamom shortbreads on the side; I ate one and tucked the other in my purse to take home to Damir. We asked for their selection of dessert wines; Betty and Pat were served a port with their cheese, and I had a Riesling ice wine.
Our verdict: great food, excellent service, beautiful surroundings and a dedication to local ingredients of the highest quality made FRANK a winner for us. The weekend brunch menu looks pretty amazing, too.